Victor Weinsanto: Echoes of Versailles in a Contemporary Key

Alsatian designer Victor Weinsanto inaugurated the Parisian week by revisiting the opulent world of Versailles. His collection paid tribute to influential female figures of the royal court, from Madame de Pompadour to Madame du Barry. For the thirty-something stylist, it was a way of exalting women’s power, forged through charisma and beauty. The result: floral pieces that married the rigor of crinolines and corsets with the suppleness of contemporary coats and trousers.

Julie Kegels: The Lightness of a Translucent Dream

Beneath the metallic structures of the elevated metro, Belgian designer Julie Kegels made her official debut on the calendar with an ethereal collection: transparent veils, satiny reflections, delicate sparkles — all rendered in a pastel palette infused with softness.

Hodakova: Fragments of Life, Elegance Reinvented

Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson, for her part, took over the Bourdelle Museum to give life to her credo of upcycling. Embroidered sheets became dresses, leather handbags turned into bralettes, books were transformed into ruffles or collars: each piece stood as a manifesto where memory meets innovation.

Saint Laurent: An Iconic Ritual in the Shadow of the Eiffel Tower

As night fell, the highly anticipated Saint Laurent show electrified Paris. Amid clusters of white hydrangeas forming the YSL logo, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a wardrobe of flowing, voluminous dresses, transparent trench coats reimagined as gowns, and leather silhouettes in black and brown, with pencil skirts and oversized jackets. The chromatic palette — deep blue, incandescent red, fiery orange — was enhanced with oversized earrings and sharply pointed stilettos. In the front row, a constellation of stars: Madonna, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Renée Zellweger… a true carnival of lights and gazes.

A Collective Fresco of the Great Fashion Houses

The evening closed with L’Oréal Paris’s public show on the square of the Hôtel de Ville, illuminated by the presence of Jane Fonda, Kendall Jenner, Gillian Anderson, and Eva Longoria.

Until October 7, more than 110 brands will unveil their collections through 76 shows and 37 presentations. This season promises to be historic: it marks an unprecedented turning point with new artistic directions. Matthieu Blazy’s show for Chanel on October 6 is particularly awaited, as is Jonathan Anderson’s first women’s collection for Dior, scheduled for October 1. Eyes will also be on Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga and Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier.

Once again, Paris confirms its status as the capital where the myths and the future of fashion are written.